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| Germany & Austria Archive | |
Dautel, Spätburgunder Rosé trocken, Württemberg, Germany 2003
We opened a bottle of this rosé the other evening, and as much as I loved this wine 6 months ago, I love it even more now. Hard as it may be to believe that a rosé would improve with a little time - this one has. Of all the major German wine regions, Württemberg is the least known. Hardly any of its wines are exported and the local population, whose annual wine consumption is double the national average, consumes much of what is produced. Because its vineyards are scattered, nestling on a handful of well-exposed slopes, usually close to the River Neckar or its tributaries, it's a more difficult area for tourists to explore, although many of the best vineyards actually lie within or between the region's major cities of Stuttgart and Heilbronn. Dautel is clearly the best wine producer in this region and he is particularly good with red wines. This rosé is 100% pinot noir. Pure bright fruit, totally dry and crisp. It has wonderful acidity - a surprise when you consider what a warm vintage 2003 was. Perfect for sipping by itself but could easily stand up to a simple pork dish and all types of finfish.
Dautel, Riesling Besigheimer Wurmberg trocken *** Württemberg, Germany 2001
Apart from the urban centers of Stuttgart and Heilbronn, Württemberg is a rural, hilly countryside with vineyards and orchards scattered among forests and fields. Of all the major wine regions in Germany, Württemberg is probably the least known. Very few of the wines produced in this region are exported and most are consumed locally. The terraced vineyards of the past have been reorganized to improve efficiency, but a number still exist, notably the so-called "cliff gardens" near the Neckar River's scenic loops between Besigheim and Mundelsheim. More than half of the vineyards are planted with red wine varieties and much of the wine is light, fruity and easy to enjoy. Riesling is also a very important variety in Württemberg, accounting for nearly a quarter of the vineyard area.
Ernst Dautel's estate is the leader in Württemberg and his dry wines are often some of the best in Germany. Dautel maintains that the northern European climate produces wines that accentuate aroma and finesse, rather than body and richness. His Rieslings are spicy and tangy and extremely well made. They are very unlike the Rieslings of the Mosel or Nahe - you won't experience that unique mineral and petrol quality found in those wines. To me, Dautel's Rieslings have more of a flavor profile of wines that come from the Burgenland region of Austria, but more delicate and certainly not as rich and full.
The Riesling Besigheimer Wurmberg trocken *** 2001 is a dry, enormously food friendly wine. My guess is that if you tasted this in a blind tasting, you would not pick it out as Riesling. It has a wonderfully light and delicate quality to it. It is without any noticeable residual sugar and comes across as very pleasantly dry. It has a citrus, lime and mandarin orange note in the mouth. As the wine warms in your glass, it develops more richness than your first impression might give. This is a trocken (dry) wine, so no low alcohol here - 13% - enough that even the most testosterone blessed among us can enjoy it!
As you may know, I continually urge subscribers of this newsletter to drink more German and Austrian wine - and though you may get tired of hearing it - YOU NEED TO DRINK MORE GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN WINE!!
Crisp & Dry Whites -- 3 bottles $65
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