Charles Hours, Cuvée Marie, Jurançon Sec 2006
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The Jurançon sec "Cuvee Marie" comes from a 3 hectare vineyard planted almost wholly to Gros Manseng with a little Corbu. It is barrel fermented (but just 10% new oak) and aged on the lees for about 11 months. This wine is wonderful, with a sleek elegance and the hint of oak. It is perfectly balanced by restrained fruit, white floral notes and a touch of citrus. This is the most "serious" Jurançon sec that I have ever tasted. It has a rich, creamy texture with complex smoke notes on the palate and a racy citrus acidity. I really like this wine.

It reminds me in a way of a white Bordeaux that has just a little bit of age on it. I think it is perfect. And it can stand up to fairly substantial pork dishes and most Provençal cooking.

Jurançon comes from a little village of the same name south of Pau, in the western part of the Pyrénées, in the Béarn. The wines of Jurançon acquired their fame when they were used for the baptism of King Henri IV in 1554. The vines are grown on steep slopes consisting of clay, limestone and small stones. The vineyards are affected by ocean and mountain climates. The growers use traditional grapes such as Petit and Gros Manseng, Lauzet, Courbu, and occasionally Camaralet de Lasseube, to produce both sweet and dry wines.

This wine is listed in Le Guide Hachette des Vins 2007 edition with two stars. Le Guide Hachette is an independent and highly respected wine reference (regarded as the French wine drinker's bible). It examines every appellation (by region) and rates wines by awarding stars. It is an extremely good way of discovering wines from smaller growers who don't get reviewed by Robert Parker, the Wine Spectator and other publications which all too often focus on the more prestigious estates and their wines. (It is only released in French.)


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