The Compliment of Rational Opposition

It’s been a while.

And honestly, I want you to know that I am badly broken up about it. But I’m not afraid of being overpowered by the feeling. It will pass away soon enough. (Apologies to Jane A. & Mr. Bennett).

And in that light, I have given myself permission to blow off giving any serious explanation as to why I haven’t been doing much writing lately. Suffice it to say that my lack of motivation to wax literary is due in part to being busy with Guy du Vin consulting and to an ever growing distaste for all things “social network – y”… particularly as it relates to wine (and food) writing.

Individual taste in wine and food is a muddled, indeterminate mix of personal preference along with a desire to project status and sophistication. And since much of the online wine and food “community” is so good at imparting strings of vanities along with heavy doses of self-importance to a suggestible audience – topped off with a healthy measure of opinion and belief presented as fact, using astonishing amounts of inaccurate, incomplete information, e.g., “natural” wine, biodynamic viticulture – I just haven’t felt compelled to add to all the meaningless noise of late.

Lawrence Osborne claimed that wine is “99 percent psychological, a creation of where you are and with whom.” I couldn’t agree more.

That’s enough pissing into the wind for now.

One thing that I have been doing lately is tasting a lot of wine. In fact, I have a pretty big backlog of wines that I have tasted over the past few months that I would like to share and that I think you might enjoy very much. All of these wines are well made, delicious, worth your time and money and are outstanding values regardless of price.

All wines are available through Guy du Vin. You can place your order by emailing All wines must be ordered in six bottle minimums unless otherwise indicated. These selections are available for order only until April 20th. We can ship your wine as soon as it is ready, or we can hold your order until you’ve selected a full case. If we don’t have your credit card on file, we’ll give you a call.

White Wine

Domaine Tabordet Pouilly Fumé FR 2010 – $19.00 per bottle – Pouilly-Fume is one of the Loire wine region’s most-famous appellations, along with its neighbor Sancerre, just across the river. This is fantastic Sauvignon Blanc. It hits all the right buttons – definitely NOT New Zealand. Ripe and rich – but with plenty of acid and minerality.

Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Chardonnay Réserve FR 2009 – $17.50 per bottle – This is a solid, delicious entry level Chardonnay. It is well balanced, combining perfect freshness and sweetness. It has good acidity and is not overloaded with wood. Good for short term cellaring or drink-it-up now.

Château Doisy-Daëne Bordeaux Blanc FR 2010 – $26.50 per bottle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon. This is one of the most enjoyable white wines I have tasted in the last six months. This dry white expresses exceptional finesse. It possesses unusual aromatic power, with grapefruit and white peach aromas – and on the palate it shows flavors of pear and spice. Delicious when young right now, it also has great aging potential (5 to 10 years). Rich concentration yet a defined crispness to the fruit.
3 bottle minimum order.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese Mosel GER 2006 – $26.00 per bottle – Along with the Doisy-Daëne, this is a wine that you should have in your cellar. It has a bouquet of white peach, blackcurrant and mint. Apricot fruit on the palate with subtle acidity. The herbal/slate finish seems to go on forever. I have to quote David Schildknecht from the Wine Advocate on his description of this wine; “There is elegance and lift here as well as a marriage of textural creaminess with vivacity that really display the grower’s and vinifier’s art as well as the uniqueness of a great site and of a style of wine unapproachable anywhere else on earth.” I still maintain that there is no other wine in the world that comes close to German Riesling for the expression of place or greatness in wine at such an affordable price.
3 bottle minimum order.

Red Wine

Clotilde Davenne Irancy FR 2010 – $20.25 – from an obscure appellation near Chablis. Pinot Noir – structured, delicious, and a great food wine. Pale red with good intensity. Youthful and light to medium bodied. Cranberry flavors in the mouth, with good acidity, good length and rustic dry tannins to finish. You should decant this wine whenever you open it over the next year or two.  Limited availability

Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Thorins FR 2009 – $30.25 – I believe that this is going to turn into a spectacular wine. Right now it is dark and intense. Very young – it will need a few years to open up. More complex than most Burgundy – at half the price. And in a few years you can have fun passing this off as something great coming out of the Côte de Beaune rather than a Cru Beaujolais from a tiny parcel. This is a wine that you should not miss. Five years from now you will be patting yourself on the back if you have a few bottles in your cellar.
Limited availability

Wind Gap Syrah Griffins Lair Vineyard Sonoma Coast CA 2008 – $47.25 – I think this is one of the very few New World Syrah’s worth seeking out. Very young – but with incredibly deep and almost profound fruit. Very structured – this needs a few years to come around – but when it does you will have one of the best examples of New World Syrah available. Cassis, blueberry, licorice and spices, with hints of violet and mocha. Sweet, creamy and deep, with a layered quality to the cassis – bitter cherry and floral notes. This is an example of what California (and New World) winemaking could be.
Very limited


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