We have not heard from Mistress Jeannette for quite a while. She dropped off the face of the earth last year sometime and now when we ask what she’s been up to, her only reply is: “Subterranean rooms seem to bring out the worst in people.” So what does that mean?
Anyway, here is another installment of Mistress Jeanette’s Sinister Sideboard – where we take a brief, and potentially lethal, visit to the back of Mistress Jeanette’s wine cellar, pull out a wine that we have forgotten about and (we hope) live to discuss. This week: Lungarotti Vino Santo 1992.
I don’t know where Mistress has been hiding this one. It was a 375 ml bottle that looked like it had been pulled from the toxic red sludge that has been flowing into Austria (famous for some of its citizens behaving badly in basements). The bottle looked awful and I could not believe mistress wanted me to drink anything that would come out of a bottle in this poor shape. To be fair – the ullage looked good, nothing out of the ordinary there. But the top of the bottle looked deadly – like the Blob had crept across the cork leaving a black, disease ridden slime. But – I was at her tender mercies. I picked up my broken wine glass for a sip.
Although the Lungarotti Vin Santo lacked some depth, the nutty, alcoholic, and sherried character quickly filled out with some raspberry and strawberry fruit, which was a surprise, considering it’s made from malvasia and trebbiano. There isn’t a red grape in it. This 18 year old wine had really held up well, considering the beating and the neglect that mistress had given this bottle. As I said – it lacked some depth and could have used slightly more oomph. But as mistress quickly pointed out – so do I. I was happy to realize that I had survived another session with mistress and I would go on to taste another day.