Blinded by the Flight 

with apologies to Manfred Mann and Bruce Springsteen

I'm hoping that you got to see the KGW "Vino Vote" spot on television in May. Guy du Vin unselfishly used up 2 of his potential 15 minutes of fame purely for the edification of television viewers the world over, or at least for those who watch the NBC affiliate in Portland. For a rundown of the tasting and which wines the panel members chose as winners, click KGW. (You'll have to sign in, but it's easy and they won't send you emails unless you request. Once signed in, search for "vino".)

It was fun to be a part of this tasting panel. I always enjoy tasting wine with Lisa Shara Hall as she has one of the best wine palates in Portland. The same is true of Tysan Pierce from the Heathman, who runs a terrific wine program at the restaurant. The other panelists were great as well. They didn't hesitate to speak up once they realized that "wine experts" are filled with a tremendous amount of hot air. They quickly learned that they could contribute their own heated bluster to the discussion, which, unfortunately, didn't keep them from being wrong, though they failed to realize it and switch their vote in time to the correct wines.

I was particularly pleased that all three of the professional tasters chose the Edmunds St. John, Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah, El Dorado 2000 as their favorite wine of the tasting. I have stated many times before that that Steve Edmunds is the best producer of syrah and Rhône style wines in the United States. I would have sworn this wine was from the southern Rhône. My second favorite wine was from Torbreck, The Struie, Barossa Valley, Australia 2002. This wine was in a completely different style from the Wylie-Fenaughty; much more fruit driven and much bigger. But it was every bit as delicious and tasty. It could have been my first choice except for my overriding preference for wines that are more understated, elegant and that have lots of earthy, cow-poopy goodness, if you know what I mean.

A final note on blind tastings, Kermit Lynch (the wine importer) once said, "Blind tastings are to wine what strip poker is to love". I participate in, and also lead blind tastings, quite often. They have their place and tasting wines blind can help develop and focus one's palate. But ultimately, blind tasting takes all the fun out of wine, because it reduces wine to something without any context. If there is one idea that I have tried to convey, it is that wine is all about context. Without context, wine has no meaning. I think that ultimately blind tasting confuses you as to the purpose of drinking wine. It is supposed to be fun! Terry Theise, who writes about, understands, and communicates about wine better than anyone else in the world, has said that the only genuinely professional approach to wine is to know as much about it as you possibly can. Who made it, where it's from, the growing conditions, the winemaker's track record, etc. It is only then that you can make a thoughtful evaluation about a wine. That experience of meaning is too rare to squander.

Now, if you would please dry your eyes, let's join hands and sing the first three verses of Kumbaya.

When finished with that - just click on this weeks wines and let them do a little communicating of their own.

(Just in case you don't know, blind tasting is where the tasters are not informed as to what wine is being tasted, where it comes from, who made it, the vintage, or sometimes even what variety is being tasted. In this case, the only thing we knew was that we were tasting syrah.)

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0224 SW Hamilton Street, Suite 100
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