Hightower Cellars Merlot WA 2006

I first tasted Hightower wines about 10 or 12 years ago at a Washington State walk around tasting here in Portland. I remember the venue being overcrowded, something that always makes me want to put my glass down and get out – fast. It is difficult to taste and concentrate in those conditions.

I do remember the Hightower wines making an impression at the time. In fact, along with wines from one or two other producers, Hightower wines were the highlight of the tasting. I think I ordered a couple of cases for one of the restaurants I was working with and then went on my way – occasionally tasting following vintages, but in all honesty, not paying close attention.

In the ensuing years, I have tended to lose interest in wines from the New World and domestic wines in particular. Too much alcohol, no balancing acidity, one dimensional fruit and over extraction - that seems to be the road domestic producers are on and continue to follow. But there are exceptions. And when I taste those exceptions, it is always exciting, humbling, educational, and rewarding. There are some great producers in this country and they don’t get the attention they deserve.

A very good friend of mine gave us a bottle of 1999 Hightower Cabernet Sauvignon before Christmas. I didn’t think too much about it, except to note that it was a ’99 (which was interesting) and that the person that gave us the bottle is someone whose taste in wine I trust completely. We opened the bottle a few weeks ago and I was astonished by how delicious it was. It pushed ALL my buttons – just enough fruit, earthiness, delicacy and elegant leathery, licorice notes, and a long finish. It wasn’t tired at all – it was much more European in style than most American wines, but it was unmistakably domestic. What more could a wine lover ask for?

I immediately set up a meeting with Hightower to taste through their current releases. I am happy to say that the same quality is still there that I first tasted in their wines a decade ago. We can't get you any of the 1999 vintage, but I think you will enjoy this Cabernet and Merlot very much. They are delicious right now (much bigger and fruiter than they will be when mature). I suggest that you give them a try and if you like them, let us know and we will get you more. These wines (especially the Cabernet) are well worth laying down for 6 to 8 years. (Possibly longer if you have excellent storage.) Where so many domestic wines fail to age and lose any semblance of balance at an early age, these wines will live and improve for many years.

The 10-acre estate vineyard of Hightower Cellars is located on Red Mountain. Red Mountain is one of the warmest sites in Washington and receives an average of 6 inches of rainfall per year, lending intense color, concentrated dark fruit and tannin structure to Hightower wines.

The 2006 Merlot is medium bodied with bright fruit and silky tannins. Only 296 cases produced.